What an incredible relief it was to be in Serbia and most importantly to be off our Schengen visa clock. We are only allowed 90 days in Schengen countries and I had plotted our route to fit that almost to the day. Now Bosnia had chewed up 3 of our precious days, so I would have to enter Greece 3 days later than planned. It wouldn’t have been a problem, but my Mom is joining us in Greece and heaven help me if we are not at the airport to meet her!
So, for the first time since getting Miles McFlattery, there was no rush and nowhere we HAD to be. Finally, I was getting the chance to Learn How To Breathe! Our first look at Serbia was stunning! Rolling hills cascading down the neatest little valley dotted here and there with red-roofed houses. What more perfect place to relax and unwind?
The campsite I had chosen was in the tiny village of Kremna, about 30km from the border. We followed the signposts up a dirt track to a pear orchard where there was place for about 6 campervans to park. We were greeted by the most wonderful elderly gentleman who proceeded to try and ply me with copious amounts of his homebrewed pear schnapps. His English was questionable and my Serbian was completely lacking but somehow we managed a fabulous conversation about things to do in the area, his triple bypass, how his pear schnapps had won a gold medal in the regional competition (yes I bought a bottle), his family – including his wife who he delightfully referred to as “my darling”. He was delightful!
There was a lovely covered seating area where we set up shop – work and school. Shortly thereafter another campervan (named Pogo) arrived with British Cathy and Dave, soon to become our very best mates. I watched them being seated in the arrivals area and looked on with amusement as they were also plied with pear schnapps. Cathy ended up cooking us a delicious risotto and we spent the most hilarious evening in their campervan, playing Uno and drinking pear schnapps!
We started our day with the local breakfast, Komplet Lepinja, a big bread bun, with a mixture of pork gravy and scrambled egg cooked inside it. Absolutely delicious! With big things on our agenda, we decided to catch up on work, while Cathy caught up with her blog posts. I had lamented about the broken state of Miles – fridge not working on gas, toilet cassette lid not closing properly, leaking bathroom floor and more – so Mr Fixit Dave decided he would take a look and see what he could do. He spent the better part of the day being an absolute angel and repairing as much as he could. He was a godsend!
Campervan fridges can run on electricity (if you’re hooked up) or battery (which you can only use when driving or it will drain the battery) or on gas. In order for us to be able to wild camp, it was vital that the fridge worked on gas and that the boiler worked for hot water – neither of which was happening. The bathroom floor had huge holes in it, so when we showered, the water streamed through the van, which was obviously not ideal. We had been limping along since we collected the van, but I really needed everything working now. There are not many campsites in the Balkans and we would soon need to wild camp, so it was now time to find someone to fix everything.
Dave found out about a camperstop in Belgrade which was part of a campervan repair shop, fingers crossed they could help. There were lots of sights to be seen in the area around Kremna, but the lure of having a 100% working van was too much, so the next day we set off, destination Belgrade, with a whole lot of prayers that Miles could be restored.
We stayed at Camping Viljamovka. Park in amongst the pear trees and get plied with rakija! 17 Euro per night for a camper, an adult, a child and electric. Breakfast is available at 3.50 Euros and it’s delicious. There is a very basic supermarket a few minutes walk away. Wifi is excellent!
+381 63 8429808
GPS: 43.84519, 19.57398